Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
